Despite the huge dump of snow recently, signs of Spring are beginning to show.
The birds are chirping more, the ponies are starting to shed their winter coats (always a sure sign of spring for any equestrian) and maple syrup producers are getting ready for their season.
Provided the long blue tube lines to collect sap don’t have to be dug out, the generous amounts of snow are good to insulate the ground and keep the sap cool. Producers hope for a slow spring of cool nights below freezing and warmer days above 6 degrees to make for a longer maple season.
And of course, some snow is needed to pour the warm syrup on for maple taffy.
Sap is the first and one of the oldest agricultural crops of each year. Seasoned maple syrup producers feel a good maple season means all other crops for the coming season will also be good. Stormont-Dundas-Glengarry producers contribute to the 1.8 million litres of syrup produced in Ontario each year, with three million taps. The average Ontario producer taps just over 2,000 trees in a managed sugarbush, allowing for the regeneration of maple trees supported by native animals & insects to preserve a healthy ecosystem in the forest.
SDG, as part of the Eastern local of Ontario Maple Syrup Producers’ Association (OMSPA), is home to 100 maple sap producers, some who tap the trees then sell the sap and others who produce local maple syrup and specialized maple products from their own sap collected.
The MacIntosh family of Glengarry Stock Farms near Apple Hill operates a full-time dairy farm and is a local producer of small batch maple syrup with a focus on providing the springtime treat to their family, friends and the community.
The MacIntosh family has over 1,700 taps around their historic sugar camp log cabin, with the potential to expand on an untapped 150 acres of maple forest.
Warren and Trudy MacIntosh noted that, years ago, everyone had a little sugar shack on their farm, making syrup for themselves and some for sharing.
Through the encouragement of Duncan McArthur, a cattle enthusiast who knew many of the farmers, Warren’s father Bobby MacIntosh was approached to start a 4-H club to teach maple syrup production to youngsters in the area. Together with best friend Donat Decaire, Bobby built the original sugar building on Angel Road. Bobby and Donat learned maple syrup production from neighbouring seasoned producers, taught youth the skills and started a small maple syrup business.
Although the business waned over the years, as the next generation on the family farm and having learnt maple syrup making in Donat’s and Bobby’s 4H club, Warren saw the opportunity to revitalize the maple syrup production, build upon the dreams of both Warren’s father and Trudy’s mother, while diversifying their farming initiatives. Under the guidance of Ben Williams, a local woodworker with a passion for rejuvenating older buildings, a log barn belonging to the MacIntosh family was moved from one area of the farm and restored on the site of the original sugar camp, making one of the most picturesque sugar cabins in the area.
Even the cabin’s stone fireplace, built by retired SDG teacher and local stone mason Theo Otelaar, reflects the family’s community connections. Inspired by a suggestion of neighbour Richard Burton, the stones used in the focal centrepiece were donated from neighbouring homes, with one special stone brought from Scotland years before by Trudy’s mom, Heather. This building also serves as The Ole Sugar Barn ice cream shop during the summer — yet another creative diversification idea by a MacIntosh daughter.
Glengarry Maple, located in North Lancaster, is another family business offering small batch syrup and maple specialties. According to owner Phillip Zoeller, the soil supporting their forest grows maple varieties that make a full-bodied, richly flavoured syrup, comparable to growing grapes for a fine wine. Said Zoeller, “Our mission is to produce high-quality maple syrup, while managing the bush in a responsible and sustainable way. Subsequently keeping this beautiful hardwood forest for future generations to use conscientiously and for those that call it home.”
Glengarry Maple has 130 acres of sugarbush with approximately 6,000 taps that yield close to 10,000 litres of maple syrup each year. The general yield ratio is 40 litres of sap to make one litre of syrup, although that yield can vary in sweetness between trees and even day-to-day from the same maple tree.
Glengarry Maple created its infused syrup to set their product apart from others, enjoying success with flavours such as Chipotle Maple for salmon or Scotch Bonnet Maple syrup, great for chicken and waffles, and has even ventured into salad dressings as well as BBQ rubs and sauces. Its maple products can be found at local farmers’ markets and grocery stores, along with its online shop.
With looming pressure from the US government, larger maple syrup producers are focusing on Canada and abroad, knowing that maple syrup is a niche market in many countries that aren’t imposing considerable tariffs.
Glengarry Maple has chosen to pause shipping to the U.S. for the time being, until the effect of the tariffs can be better estimated. As it is, the amount of maple syrup produced in Ontario only supplies 40 per cent of the syrup consumed in the province, so focus can be on the provincial market. Since the tariffs will increase the costs across the border as well, Ontario producers feel the playing field might be more balanced due to the dollar exchange rate.
According to Frank Heerkens, board member of the Eastern division the Ontario Maple Syrup Producers Association (OMSPA), Ontario’s maple syrup industry is more of a heritage byproduct than a focused industry, although membership in the OMSPA has grown over 30 per cent in the past three years. Ontario currently has more trees than neighbouring Quebec that could be tapped, but there hasn’t been an investment in training and government funded programs like other provinces to expand production.
As well, Ontario continues to suffer from clear cutting. Increasing both the urban and rural forests, aiming for 30 per cent coverage, would be effective in combating climate change. Instead of losing vast amounts of forest, and in particular maple trees, to clear cutting which produces only a one-time profit, a sugarbush can provide 200 years of income from the sap it produces.
Rob Berkvens works for CDL Maple Equipment, selling supplies to maple producers. Eighty per cent of his customers are hobby sap collectors with about 200 taps, while the remaining 20 per cent are larger scale producers. Sales of equipment to tap trees and collect sap show the industry continues to attract newcomers, even if on a small scale. Berkvens helps to plant 5,000 to 7,000 trees each year to do his part to sustain and grow the syrup production industry, protect maple trees and promote a healthier climate.
OMSPA Maple Syrup Weekend will be hosted April 5 and 6. Many maple producers will host open houses, each with their own events, such as demonstrations on how to make maple syrup and its sweet counterparts, like maple butter, infused syrups, maple fudge and maple taffy.
